Are you an avid hiker seeking the ultimate adventure? Do you dream of tackling the iconic Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) trail at your own pace? Look no further, because we've got you covered on everything you need to know to plan your self-guided TMB hiking escapade!
Setting the Stage: Overview of the TMB
The Tour du Mont Blanc is a legendary 174km trail that circumnavigates the Mont Blanc massif in Europe, offering jaw-dropping alpine scenery, charming villages, and a test of endurance that will leave you in awe. You will cross the 3 country borders of France, Italy and Switzerland, ascend at least 7 cols or mountain passes, gaining almost 10,000m in elevation to earn the badge of hiking around Europe's tallest peak. It is actually quite accessible from many towns and not as remote as you might think. As a result, it is a very busy, popular trek during the hiking season so don't expect much solitude. As an experienced or new hiker, embarking on this journey is not just about conquering the trail but also about discovering your inner strength and resilience amidst nature's grandeur...because you will call on it often!
Planning Your Adventure
1. Research and Preparation
Before embarking on your TMB hike, it is essential to thoroughly prepare to make the most of this incredible adventure. Start by delving into detailed research about the trail you will be exploring. Understand the length, elevation gain, and any challenging sections that may lie ahead. By familiarizing yourself with the terrain, you can mentally prepare for what to expect and adjust your pace accordingly.
How difficult is the hike?
We underestimated how difficult this hike would be in many ways beyond just the physical aspect. This hike makes hiking the O Circuit in Patagonia look like a cake walk. It's akin to climbing the John Garner pass, which is the highest point on the circuit, but doing that almost every day, for 7-11 consecutive days. Don't believe the guidebooks when they describe sections as a gentle grade. It's a mountain. There is no such thing as gentle.
It is quite a bit of distance hiking around the massif. We made our first few days easier by shortening the distances so we could get our mountain legs in gear but sooner or later, you will have to brace yourself for a few tough days. The one tricky section that many talk about is the 'ladders section' between Tré-le-Champ and Refuge la Flegère where there are almost vertical ladders beside a steep drop-off. Some sections are just not that interesting (hello, La Fouly) so it can be a grind mentally. And repeating this over 11 days with poor weather can begin to wear on you. Do what you need to do mentally to appreciate all aspects of the hike.
When to start your trek?
This is one of the biggest questions people ask about this hike. The hiking window is quite short - late June to mid=September, with July and August being the peak months. In early season, you will have to cross slippery snow bridges and water crossings. In late season, you run the increased risk of the weather turning colder quickly. Of course, it can also snow in August but at least you will minimize the chances of that happening during the peak months. Our hiking window in early September had the most awful weather where it rained almost every day and a cold front swept in. Based on this, unless you are willing to do this last minute, I would recommend going in July/early August.
Dealing with Crowds
Shoulder season is no longer a quiet time on the trail and 2024 was the busiest yet for the TMB. We completed our hike Sept 5-17, 2024 and there were times when it felt like a stampede of hikers were behind you every step of the way. This is more true in the sections that are popular for day-hikers, which is almost all of it. If you are looking for solitude and being in tune with mother nature, you will have to tackle the more strenuous variants, sometimes not possible with the weather conditions. This is not the hike for you if you want peace and quiet.
By investing time in understanding the trail and its surroundings, you can enhance your overall hiking experience. Knowing what to expect, being prepared for any weather changes, and having a clear plan in mind will not only make your TMB hike memorable but also safer and more enjoyable. So, lace up your hiking boots with confidence, armed with knowledge and readiness for the adventures that await!
Getting to the Trailhead
The traditional start of the trek is in Les Houches, about 7km from the town of Chamonix but because there are so many towns that the trail passes through, you can just about start anywhere. For most, the easiest is to fly to Geneva, Switzerland and take a 70 minute bus ride to Chamonix, France. From there, you can spend a night or two soaking up the atmosphere in the town before you start the trek and take the valley bus right to the starting gate at Les Houches. Check out the Eric Jacquier boulangerie right there for pastries and sandwiches for the trail. At Les Houches, you have the choice of taking the Bellevue cable car up, saving some valuable elevation (recommended), or walk up the ski hill following roads and tracks below the lift. There isn't any scenery to talk about so I wouldn't do it again unless you are keen to do the trek unaided.
For the buses, there are many tour operators, but we used SwissTour, the cheapest option at about 10CHF one way if you book in advance but there are no refunds or changes allowed. They were reliable so would highly recommend using them. If your flight is delayed and you miss your bus connection like we did, you may get insurance coverage from your credit card.
Staying in Chamonix vs. Les Houches
In Chamonix, we stayed at Plan B hotel, right beside the bus terminal so very easy to get to with your luggage and packs. They also store your luggage in a secured room for free as we were also spending the night after our trek here too. Staff are super friendly and the rooms are modern and clean. There are lots of restaurants, cafes and outdoor shops in Chamonix compared to Les Houches.
2. Itinerary and Accommodation
Crafting a detailed itinerary is key to a successful TMB adventure. Plan your route, taking into account daily distances, elevation gains, and potential rest stops. This requires you to know your physical limits or to train heavily for it. I have found Andrew McCluggage's guidebook to be the easiest to follow as it has the distances of each stage between mountain huts or towns, elevation, and approximate completion time on one page. From here, you will be able to determine how much distance you will cover each day and your ideal itinerary. I would not recommend crossing two cols in one day unless you are very fit. It is critical to prebook your mountain huts or accommodations along the trail well in advance to secure your overnight stays. Many places start to open their booking window in September of the year prior to the hiking season.
Create a spreadsheet to track your days and bookings
Once you have planned out your daily stops, plot this out on a spreadsheet to keep track of your bookings. While many of the refuges are on the montourdumontblanc.com website, not all open at the same time for bookings. The ones not on the website require you to reach out individually to book. Yet still, some places will be fully booked even when they do open for bookings as many tour companies snap up spaces beforehand. Confirming your accommodations is like filling in a crossword puzzle, bit by bit, over 2-3 months. It will be frustrating, so it's also important to have a Plan B and Plan C if your preferred accommodation is sold out. The higher-demand ones are in Les Chapieux and Trient so check the availability of those and work back your dates from there.
Which direction to hike in, clockwise or counterclockwise?
It really doesn't seem to matter as we saw about as many people going in either direction when we were there. There were some sections that were quite steep that I would not want to go clockwise in, but I wasn't thinking too much about it. Choose based on how your accommodations pan out. You likely won't see the same people on the trail even going on the traditional counter-clockwise direction since so many people have different routes. We would see the same folks maybe for 2 days at a time. If you're attempting the ladder section, then I have heard going up (counter-clockwise) is easier than going down them.
Our Review of the places we stayed at on the Trail.
Based on where we stayed and heard from others on the trail, here is our review of refugios, bnbs and hotels we liked. Note that almost all served light bread & jams for breakfast unless noted:
Chalet Refuge du Fioux. This is only 7km from the start at Les Houches, but it is a wonderfully run place with delicious food (poulet rôti, chocolate pots de creme, homemade yogurt). Very clean, shared rooms and bath.
La Ferme du Champelet, Les Contamines, a small bed & breakfast right off the trail, amazing hospitality and wonderful continental breakfast. Private rooms, some shared or private bath. Book direct.
Refuge de la Balme. Great location (view) and dinner. Clean facilities. Shared bath, private rooms.
Refuge de la Nova, Les Chapieux. This is the larger of the only 2 refuges in this hamlet. Great food, private rooms & bath available. Great dinner.
Rifugio Elisabetta, Very large rifugio, very limited bath facilities, the only one that had line ups to shower. Friendly staff, best hot chocolate on the TMB, good dinner, ham and cheese served at breakfast. Book direct.
Hotel Croux, Courmayeur. Amazing rooms in the heart of town, friendly staff. Tea/coffee/cake all day, fantastic breakfast buffet included in [most] room prices. Book direct.
Rifugio Bertone. Only 5km from Courmayeur but amazing location (views), well organized. Updated private room with semi-shared full bath. Ok dinner.
Hotel Funivia, La Palud. Near Courmayeur, on the free shuttle route from Hotel Chalet Val Ferret, an option to stay at the many hotels along the route if there are no accommodations on the trail. Very clean, great continental breakfast. Restaurants in town.
Hotel Terminus, Orsières near Champex-Lac. We had to detour here due to weather. The hotel was like a mirage after a very long transit day. Rooms are clean and comfortable. Good cheaper alternative to Champex-Lac and if you want to skip the dry hike from La Fouly. Book direct.
Gentiana Boulangerie rooms - cheap for Swiss standards 130CHF for two with breakfast, very simple private double rooms with shared, clean full bath among 4 rooms. Contact leonlovey@netplus.ch to book.
Refuge Le Peuty, about 1km from Trient. Dorms and 1 private yurt, clean shared bath. Best food on the trail!
Le Dahu hotel, Argentiere. Clean, cheap option (84€ for 2) if you don't want to stay at Auberge la Boërne. Great grocery in town to resupply. Book direct.
Refuge du Montenvers, Balcon Nord, Mer de Glace is a great way to extend your trip at the end and see another side of the mountain. Hike, take the gondola or train. Book direct.
If you are camping, then you can easily do this trek last minute. Note, there are many rules around wild camping so please be aware of them as they vary by country. The guidebook will have a list of campgrounds and ammenities and various resources online as well. We did not camp as we prioritized keeping our backpacks light.
Rest days?
Many hikers add rest days at the halfway point during the hike, typically in Courmayeur or Champex-Lac. For us, as we were taking it slow, did not feel it was needed but if we did, I would recommend Courmayeur over any of the other towns because it has lots to explore when you are there.
A word on private accommodations
You may not be used to dormitory-style accommodations so if you are taking your time 8+ days, then I would highly recommend booking some private rooms just to get a break or good sleep if you are a light sleeper. Most places have shared bathrooms only, another consideration to look for when reviewing your options. If you are keen only on private rooms with private bathrooms, consider heading back down to towns via the many gondolas and transport options for some nights. All meals in refuges are pre-assigned at communal tables so you will enjoy getting to know other hikers and sharing stories at the end of the day.
3. Packing Essentials
Packing light but smart is essential for hikers. With the number of cols that need to be climbed, you will regret bringing a heavy load. Test out your gear beforehand and pack for all four seasons, even in summer. Being prepared for various weather scenarios will allow you to adapt quickly and stay comfortable throughout the hike.
Trekking poles, boots vs. trail runners and other gear questions
This topic is debated on the Facebook groups over and over again. This comes down to personal preferences that you should iron out before you start the trek. Most people use trekking poles, and believe me, you will want them on those long 3km+ inclines. The terrain is mostly rocky, so a stable pair of hiking shoes is critical in my opinion. I have never hiked in trail runners and prefer the stability of lightweight boots that have a stiffer sole and can support the extra weight of a backpack. Trail runners are not meant to handle that. Waterproof shoes or not? Do you like cold wet feet? Do your shoes dry out quickly? That should answer your question. By the way, after hiking 6+hrs in the rain to Refugio Elisabetta, everyone had wet shoes of varying degrees, Goretex or not.
Backpack size. Dave carried a 48L pack, with camera gear. I used a 38L and it was perfect for me.
Our secret to staying blister-free? You need a comfortable pair of worn-in shoes/boots and the perfect socks. We've used Silverlight brand socks (no affiliation) for two years now and it has never failed us. Faster to dry than wool-based socks, they have silver thread woven in to stave off any stinky bacteria. There is light compression to aid and a smooth weave with no snagging. We didn't really need to wash them even after a week of use! Oh, and walking slow also helps, if you ever needed an excuse for hiking turtle-speed.
4. Health and Safety First
Mont Blanc is one of the most dangerous mountains when it comes to injury and deaths. It may seem very benign as it is relatively close to towns, transportation etc but it is still mother nature and she can be deceptive sometimes. Stay on marked trails, respect nature, and be mindful of your limits. Check the weather forecast each day to determine your route as most variants are to be avoided in poor weather conditions. We did not find the refuges very helpful in this respect so get your own access either through sattelite or cell service. The only town where we could not get cell service was in Les Chapieux. We did not use our Garmin In Reach device on this trail and do not recommend it if you are hiking the classic trail.
Norovirus, Covid, and bed bugs
Another aspect of health to consider is the sheer number of viruses that is spread among hikers. It seemed like every 5th person was coughing on the trail this season. We eventually succumbed to it on our last day as we were seated beside a couple who had coughing symptoms. We started seeing posts about this topic on the facebook groups so we armed ourselves with hand sanitizer, clorox wipes, liquid hand soap (for washing hands after using toilets) and my DIY bedbug concoction that I used every night on our sleeping liners. 99% of the refuges do not supply hand soap in the toilets and is the single most important thing needed to remove any potential norovirus germs lurking on your hands. Norovirus is spread by contact, not airborne like Covid and hand sanitizer does not kill the virus, so this is where clorox and handwashing with soap can help here. As for my DIY bedbug spray, it was a small 50ml spray bottle filled with Isopropyl alcohol and about 10-15 drops of tea tree oil and 5-8 drops of lavender oil. I don't know if this worked or not, but it did make the room smell better and helped sanitize our sleeping liners as we did not wash them during the trek.
To filter your water or not? There is water at every refuge and town you come across. All are potable and do not need filtering however, being ultra-cautious hikers, we brought our BeFree Katadyn water filter and filtered everytime. Just past one of the refugios, we spotted a dead cow lying near a water stream and at another section, we found an animal hoof lying on the trail. I wasn't taking any chances that could ruin my trip.
5. Navigation and Orientation
Navigating the TMB can be a little challenging, despite the signage on the trail (or lack in some parts). We relied on our Alltrails app's offline map to stay on course. Familiarize yourself with trail markers and signs to avoid getting lost as nothing is worse than having to backtrack. We did find the directions on the guidebook to be a little confusing to understand - eg, turn right at the fork in the trail in 10 minutes. Sometimes it's just not obvious. We purchased the official IGN trail map partway during our trek but do not think it was necessary if you know the general key markers of your daily destination, eg refuge names along the trail.
Alternative transportation options. It's important to know what your options are in the event you need to get off the trail or take an alternate route due to injury or weather or just because. For the most part, many sections of the TMB are within 5-10km of roads and therefore, transportation of some kind. It is not as isolated or wild as you may think it is but be aware and know the options in advance. We made a couple of last minute changes to our itinerary. Once, after the weather turned and the crossing the Grand Col Ferret was not a good idea and another time when we were just not motivated to hike up another col. Our favourite site for information on this is on the Mac's Adventures site. During the peak season, the gondolas and chairlifts will be operating, another plus for hiking in the Summer. When we first planned the hike, our intent was to walk every inch of the trail, with no transport aid. We quickly changed our tune after summiting the many cols and wished we had options to shortcut the trails. After all, everyone gets the same t-shirt at the end, however you do it. By the way, best t-shirt in my opinion, is in the little gift shop at Col de la Forclaz but I just couldn't bear adding a few more ounces to my backpack.
Most scenic sections not to be missed are from Refugio Bertone, where we first saw Mont Blanc to Refugio Bonatti. As you cross Col de Balme, you will face Mont Blanc again, looking straight down the Chamonix Valley. The Balcon Sud section from Brevent to Lac Blanc are great if the weather is good and you have an unobstructed view of the massif. We did not do the ladders section due to weather but this is also a section that many fear as it requires nerves of steel and determination to attempt it. If you have a fear of heights, there is a variant that you can take to avoid it. We met some fellow hikers who hiked all the way to the ladders, didn't realize how vertical they were and how steep the drop off on the cliff was and decided to turn around. It didn't help that they witnessed a person who was halfway up and so petrified they couldn't move another step.
Most boring sections, in our opinion are from Les Houches to Col de Voza (road and ski hills), Les Chapieux to Refuge des Mottets (it's all road walking, take the 4€ bus to Mottets to shave about 6km especially if it's raining like it was for us - prebook the ticket at the machine near the tourist office the night before) and La Fouly to Champex-Lac, but if you like forest hiking you will be ok. There is a cute Village de Coin that you pass through that's interesting to see. Walking down from Elisabetta, we also took the free shuttle partway from Maison Vieille to Courmayeur - many recommend taking the chairlift down to avoid the steep descent but it was not operating during our hike. From Champex-Lac, we hopped on a couple of buses to get to Col de la Forclaz to avoid another forest hike. As we crossed the halfway mark of the trail, we were less inclined to walk some of the less interesting sections mostly because the weather was also not cooperating.
6. Mental and Physical Preparation
The TMB is not just a physical challenge but a mental one as well. Prepare yourself for long days of hiking, varying weather conditions, and unexpected obstacles along the trail. Stay positive, listen to your body, and embrace the journey, one step at a time. We are in relative average shape and started ramping up our training regiment a month prior to the hike. Based in Toronto, we do not have places to train for elevation so doing muscle training exercises for your glutes, hamstrings, core, and calves as well as cardio (3-5k runs 2x a week) were key to getting in reasonable shape. Two of our favourite routines are by YouTuber Chase Mountains who has free as well as paid guidance to get your mountain legs in shape and a Nike Training daily post-stretching routine (search for 'Anytime Athlete Recovery Flow' on the free Nike Training app) were what got us ready. During the trek, we continued to do our post-stretch routine every day - I would say this is critical to avoiding sore and stiff muscles during the hike and worked like magic.
7. Leave No Trace
As you embark on your TMB adventure, remember to leave no trace behind. Respect the environment, pack out your trash, and follow the principles of responsible hiking to preserve the beauty of the trail for future hikers to enjoy.
Toilets on the trail. Generally you will find toilets at the refuges, every 5-10km or so apart. Granted, they may not be in the best shape, or have hand soap, but we have found most to be clean and to have toilet paper. However, I would highly recommend you have your toiletry kit of extra TP, small bottle of liquid hand soap, small bottle of hand sanitizer when there is no running water, and emergency doggy bag packed. I also pack an emergency Kula-type cloth but did not need it on this trek.
8. Budget Considerations
For two people sharing, we spent just over 2,100€ ($3,226 CAD, $2,387 USD approx) for 12 nights of acommodations, all private except for 1 night in a dorm stay. Dinner and breakfast meals are included when staying at refuges. This is considerably cheaper than booking through a tour company but it is indeed a lot more stressful and requires a lot of time.
In Conclusion
Embarking on the TMB hike is a test of endurance, self-discovery, and pure wanderlust. By planning meticulously, staying safe, and immersing yourself in the stunning scenery of the Mont Blanc massif, you're bound to create memories that will last a lifetime. So, gear up, get ready, and embrace the challenge of the Tour du Mont Blanc – your adventure of a lifetime awaits!
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