If you are a new or experienced hiker and not sure how technical or difficult this hike will be, this post will help describe all the different sectors of the trek. We went counterclockwise, starting at Paine Grande and stayed in tents while carrying most of our meals. Check out our other helpful posts on planning, packing or our YouTube video as well.
Overall Observations:
No maps are provided at the park so download your own from here or get a GPS app such as AllTrails.
Passport and PDI papers (that little piece of paper you get when you arrive in Chile customs) are required at every check in for each guest.
Not all the kitchens have paper towels or soap.
Showers are hot/warm and everything else is cold. Many showers do not have pegs/hooks but you won't run out of hot water. Perros campsite is the exception where everything is glacier cold.
All camps have cooking facilities, some better than others, despite what the brochures say.
Many campsites require you to pack out your trash. Don't be that person and dump it in the washroom.
Charging outlets are available at all campsites. Only one required tipping and it was limited in terms of number of outlets. The larger sites had many outlets that were easily accessed.
Food selection at the campground is mostly snacks unless you pre-order meals. Paine Grande and Grey had the best mini-markets. All sites have restaurants except Los Perros, you can get pizza and burgers but generally not when they are serving the pre-paid dinner patrons.
Arrival at Puerto Natales airport. There is a counter that sells cheap shuttle fares into town for 4,000 CLP per person (Jan 2023). They will drop you off directly at your accommodation. Or share a cab if you want to get there faster.
Bus to the park. Everyone gets off at Laguna Amarga to have your park pass checked. Hop back on your bus if you are continuing your journey but note, Bus Sur started to consolidate passengers on each stop past LA into fewer buses so make sure to ask your driver.
3. Paine Grande to Francés via Italiano. Approx 9.5km | 383m ∆ | 4hrs. Add 11km | 6hrs if you attempt the Mirador Británico same day. This first section to Francés is an easy day to start your trek if you leave out the Mirador. Follow the signs for Italiano as this is the first stop enroute. Shortly after you leave PG, you will get to an intersection and see a sign pointing right to Italiano. If you go this way, it will add about 2km to your hike but it is supposedly more scenic. We took this route not knowing any better. Get an early start as there are windy sections in the afternoon. As you get to Italiano, decide if you want to push to see the Mirador Británico same day or next morning. If the weather looks great when you're there, go for it. Frances is a beautiful, albeit a very hilly campsite. It has the newest washroom facilities of all the park and there are beautiful views of the lake if you walk down toward the eco domes and the tiny restaurant. Not great facilities for cooking but you can cook on any of the picnic tables and there is an outdoor sink to wash dishes. They were building covered structures when we were there.
4. Francés to Cuernos. Approx. 8km | 184m ∆ | 3-4hrs. An easy hike as the sites are close to each other. You can easily add the Mirador Británico to this day if the weather cooperates as its only about 30 minutes back to Italiano to start the Mirador hike. We paid the price of unpredictabilty and lost out as the Mirador was closed due to weather in the morning, despite the weather forecast. Most people skip either Francés or Cuernos. Cuernos has a chill vibe with its main building. Tent sites can be far away though but we were lucky to get one near the lodge. You can spend your free time gazing up at the Cuernos, as the camp sits in the shadow of the peaks. The cooking facility is adequate but not a place you'd like to hang out in as it looks like a lean-to shelter but you can take your prepared food into the eating area where you checked in and its cozy with its huge picture-window views.
5. Cuernos to Chileno. Approx. 13km | 673m ∆ | 5-6hrs. After leaving the lake, the trail makes it's way up the grassy foothills but the real test is the uphill section toward Chileno. Look for the sign pointing to Chileno going left, not Hotel Torres. This section crosses an estancia and then follows the horse trail which overlaps in parts so there is quite a bit of cow and horse poop along the way to watch for. It's a dramatic entrance into the Valley as you see the river coursing through it as you get to Windy Pass. This campsite is at a higher elevation and was cool, even in summer, it should probably be called Chilly Chileno. Despite the literature saying there is no cooking allowed here, the concessionaire has a small 2x2ft table in the restaurant where you can cook, but no real facilities to clean dishes (there are signs that say no washing dishes in the washrooms). Otherwise, they provide hot water for free that you can use to rehydrate your freeze-dried meals, oatmeal, tea and coffee. Tents are in the hills on small platforms, some are a little steep to access.
6. Chileno to Central with hike to Mirador Torres. Approx 14km | 673m ∆ | 6 hrs. Seeing the Mirador is absolutely one of the highlights of the trek. It is mind-blowing when you see it in real life and worth the uphill battle to get there. There are large boulders to navigate but they are easy enough to climb up or down. Nothing tricky and a pair of trekking poles will help you power through. Get here early to avoid the masses (hence the sleepover at Chileno to get you there sooner and also with fresher legs). Once you descend toward Central, its a flat and potentially hot exposed walk. You won't see much signage or the campsite until you literally get there, its so small and unassuming. The tiniest check-in booth and mini-mini market. A short walk away is the Refugio and further beyond is the Welcome Center if you missed it. The restaurant is very nice at the modern Refugio, there are more meal options and you can get dessert here if you didn't pre-book a meal!
7. Central to Serón. Approx 13km | 319m ∆ | 4 hrs. If you stayed at Central the night before and get an early start, you will be the only ones on the trail as the folks starting from Laguna Amarga haven't arrived yet. There are no obvious trailsigns from camp but you have to walk along the gravel road and you will start to see signs pointing to Serón. It crosses an estancia and has beautiful views of the Rio Paine on your right as you near your next stop for the night. Serón is a beautiful site, and you will likely be greeted with horses grazing a few kilometres before you arrive. There is only one women's and men's shower and toilet so this was the only time we saw line ups. Try to go in off-peak times if you can.
8. Serón to Dickson. Approx. 20km | 758m ∆ | 6 hrs. The map indicates a windy section here early on as you cross Lago Paine but when you reach the area, it still shocks the system as it is truly windier than anything you will have experienced to date. I really thought I was going to get blown off the hill. It hits you that this place is just wild and fierce! It's steep in the beginning and there are some sketchy rocky areas to navigate if you have shorter legs. You will pass the guard hut halfway and there are clean, western-style pit toilets to use. On the second half, its mostly flat and open, meaning HOT if its sunny. Make sure you have enough water as we didn't see any sources. Short but very steep descent into Dickson so poles are handy. Another beautiful campground with a playa and horses roaming. Don't be surprised to see them poke their heads in your tent in the morning.
9. Dickson to Los Perros. Approx. 19km | 785m ∆ | 4-5hrs. The first part is a forest walk and lots of mosquitoes buzzing around so we motored through it. Expect a lot of horse poop on the way. Fairly unexciting until you see the falls and cross a couple bridges. As you get closer to Los Perros, you will summit a hill and an amazing view greets you of the hanging glacier. A short but windy ridge hike that looks sketchier than it is takes you to a small detour sign for a closer view of the glacier lake. After a stop here, continue on to the lovely campsite. A very chill island vibe greeted us that day with some house music playing. The staff here are so proud of their fresh glacier water. You must try the cold showers! So refreshing. No restaurant but a decent-sized kitchen and shower facilities. Generators shut off at night so make sure you charge up any devices in the kitchen before.
10. Los Perros to Grey. Approx 14km | 763m ∆ | 9-12hrs. The big day has arrived, summiting the John Garner pass. Expect a lot of wind on your push up the pass, we also had rain then hale at the top but it isn't too bad picking your way up the rocks. It's actually the downhill portion that is a killer because of the relentless steep descent and for me, the narrow ridge walk alongside the Southern Patagonia Icefield after you've descended partway down. There were definitely moments that had my adrenaline going and I need a little push from Dave to get me up some ridges (short leg problems). Dave broke one of his trekking poles here, as did others, it's that wild. Also, it's Garner, not Gardner or Gardener. Even the park concessionaire spells it incorrectly. As you finally reach the Camp Paso guard hut, you'll feel like you've walked a full day and you realize you're only halfway there. There is a clean, western toilet, hallelujah! The 3 long suspension bridges en route to Grey are a cake walk compared to what you've just done. There might have been some short ladders to climb according to my notes, but I don't recall them as I still had memories of traversing the narrow ridges on my mind. Hope you don't have a fear of heights!
11. Grey to Paine Grande. Approx. 14km | 318m ∆ | 4-5hrs. This was an absolutely lovely hike. You still get to see the Glaciar Grey in your rearview and there is still some wind to battle but compared to your trek yesterday, you will feel invincible. The grade is mellow and the terrain is even except for one rocky scramble which required an assist again from Dave but its easier going up than down for sure. There is a hyper-windy section where you can howl at the glacier just to the left of where this photo was taken. You will pass Laguna Los Patos or Big Foot lake and this is where I had the sudden inspiration to give Dave his trail name - Big Patos, seeing as I trip over his size 12 shoes all the time. As you approach Paine Grande, you will get a lovely view of Lago Pehoé. Head upstairs to the bar on the second floor of the Refugio and enjoy a cold beverage and bite to eat while you gaze at the Paine Cordillera from the large picture windows. The O is in the books! You can choose to take the ferry back to Pudeto, motor on the same day to the Park Administration office some 4 hours away or overnight at PG and hike out next day for an additional 19km for the Q circuit finisher! Just check the bus pick up schedule to be sure you can make it on time.
12. Paine Grande to Park Administration office. Approx 19km | 339m ∆ | 4-5 hrs. This is the section that turns the O Circuit into the Q Circuit. Pay no attention to the almost vertical hill infront of you as you read the trail sign that says it's easy. This is a quiet ending to your trek, with no one for miles as you will have this all to yourself. Once you clear the lake, its flat open grassland but don't forget to look back and checkout the views as the Paine Cordillera will be behind you. The park office is about 1km past the Fin del Sendero sign so feels somewhat surreal as you pop out of the trail onto the roadway. There are washroom facilities and a small museum with friendly staff. You can cook with your camp fuel here by the lake if you didn't ditch it at Paine Grande like we did. No food or drink for purchase. Bus Sur has a pick up here and will take you back to Puerto Natales with all the other tired hikers. It feels unbelievable that you just completed this 150-160km trek as there are no cheering bands or medals handed out but pat yourself or your hiking partner on the back and celebrate on your return at Puerto Natales.
OTHER RESOURCES & FINAL THOUGHTS
We completely underestimated the benefits of stretching pre and post-hike each day. After five days of strenuous up and downhill walks, the aches caught up to us. We started making sure we did some leg stretches and it helped relax the muscles right away. My favourite and highly recommended stretch is a hero pose for those aching knees provided you don't have knee issues and the sumo full squat which is great for lower backs and legs. Hip hurdles are great warm ups. The free Nike Training app has a great pre and post runner's warm up/cool down routine that you doesn't require a floor mat.
To read other helpful guides on this trek and Southern Patagonia, visit our South America blog page and visit us on YouTube. Thanks for supporting our channels, we'd be happy to answer any questions you have!